Fuđi

Second part of my trip is here. I reached Sydney from Ayers Rock and stayed there for a day. I must admit, I like Sydney better than Melbourne. Oops. But when I was strolling down the Rocks neighborhood and being caught in the buzz of the Sunday market, I actually felt a coolness to the city I haven't really felt in Melly. And yes, I saw the opera, botanical gardens and the Governor's house. All cool.

After another night at the airport I finally boarded the plane for Fiji. Fiji, like Samoa, has been my dream since those Australia and Oceania lectures at university. I absolutely wanted to see how a state of coup d'etat and a country of deep ethnic divide functions in everyday life. And try it's famous beaches, I won't lie.

I landed in Nadi and got one of the harshest immigration scans yet. Even Armenia was better than this! They wanted my return boarding pass (which I didn't have yet, because I am flying with low-cost Jetstar) and they wanted to know my financial status. I suspect it's because they've literally never heard of Slovenia before. They also double, triple checked with me if I'm sure I don't mean Slovakia. I was sure.

Still I managed to get to Bamboo Backpackers, which is a truly nice place and would recommend it to everyone. Lying in a hammock, overlooking the sea and reading a good book finally soothed my nerves. The evening finished with kava party, which is a Fijian specialty. Kava is a root of kadava plant, which is finely ground and made into a drink. They say you need to get used to the taste and right they are! It is bitter and looks like dirt. But so does coffee, so who am I to judge?  :)

Next morning I was whizzed off to Mana island in the Mamanuca group. I was told it's beautiful. Well it surely is nice, but as an avid ecologist I can't get past the trash that everybody seems to simply discard wherever. Like Samoa. I am frustrated as hell. These guys have a true paradise at their disposal and they're treating it like it doesn't matter. Grrrrhhhh!

Still, the Ratu Kini Resort was ok. Food was not too bad, rooms were fairly basic, but the staff was nice. As the tides are quite extreme, you can't really swim in the afternoon with the low tide. So Nathan, the chef, offered to show me his favourite spot where you can swim at any time of the day. It was a great spot! The next day I visited it again with proper snorkeling gear and it was even more spectacular! What a coral reef! Such colours! White, pink, yellow, blue, orange! And fish! What a variety! And colours and patterns! I even saw an actual turtle. Turtle. Swimming. In front of me. Sweet mother of....
Yeah, definitely go snorkeling or scuba diving in Fiji! A must!
Naturally things can't be too great for too long, so I got severe sunburns despite my many layers of sunscreen.

Now I am back in Nadi, where I just got back from the town. Nadi is not really spectacular in any way, but I did see the biggest Hindu temple in the country and local market, which was obviously amazing. I bought passion fruit and quawa to try. Yum! Pacific fruits just can't be beaten.

That's it folks. Tomorrow I am heading towards the capital Suva and then even further to Taveuni island.

Yours truly,

Ajda

Uluru

While Alice Springs isn't a very exciting town, it certainly does have its own little share to offer.
I had two days before my departure for Uluru, so I decided to book a tour to Palm Valley to make the most of my stay here. Actually I wanted to go to the MacDonnell ranges, but as my travelling luck goes, there were no departures in the next two days. Thus Palm Valley.
I am not a big fan of tours, but in the outback there's not much choice. You certainly can go out alone, but there's 90% chance you'll get lost and die. And rule no1 in the outback is "don't die".
So the tour took us first to the historic town of Hermannsburg. Now this is a quaint sight! This town is basically a result of German-Lutheran colonisation of the Australian centre. Honestly, I didn't expect to see anything German here. As a matter of fact I am meeting way too many German things and folks on this trip. Take it easy, Deutschland!

Palm Valley itself is not really spectacular if you ask me. Ok, rare cycads in the middle of the desert. I get it. I still wasn't blown away.

Day no3: Alice Springs sightseeing. Got up early to beat the heat. Climbed Goat Hill in honor of my Goat family (long story). Visited the museum of Royal Flying Doctors Service. This was awesome,  everybody visiting Alice Springs should do it. These guys are fucking amazing and are saving lives in the outback on a daily basis. By paying admission fee you contribute to the functioning of RFDS; if you can't go there, but would like to contribute, they always welcome donations. Day was getting hot so I needed to hurry. The Residency is a nice colonial house, where you can learn about the early days of the Red Centre colonisation and you can make your own tea for a small donation. Nice! Final stop: didgeridoo workshop. In the Sounds of the Starlight shop a nice man Andrew shows you how to play this magnificent and ancient instrument. 10$ fee is well worth it! Going back to the hostel in 43°C. Alice, you get a 8/10.

And now, FINALLY, Uluru. On an early Friday morning I boarded a van presided by Mr Nick, the Dane. We rushed towards King's Canyon and then we rushed a bit more. I still couldn't get over the fact that Oz is so big. It takes HOURS to get anywhere! Eventually we would get to the canyon. Blazing heat. And we were to walk up hill. Due to the extreme weather conditions we weren't allowed to do the big track, so we walked just to the best lookout. It was great! You can really see the layers of sediments in the rock and how it transformed over centuries.

This night we would be sleeping under the stars. Literally. We got some beer and cider out of a small gas station and headed towards the real outback. We gathered the wood and started the fire. A part of the team was chopping veggies meanwhile. We cooked our dinner over campfire and drank our ciders. Our beds for the night were swags, basically open air foam mattresses in a canvas bag. All you had to do was open your eyes and gaze at the magnificent starry sky. Too bad I don't see shit without my lenses. And btw, there were actual dingos howling around us over night. Insane.

Next morning we visited the Olgas or Kata Tjuta as Aborigines call it. These are round, dome - like rock formations of stunning red colour. We did the big walk and it was well worth it, for the views. In the evening we visited Ananga cultural centre, where we learned about the importance of Tjukurpa, which is a complex set of beliefs, morals, rights and rules in Aboriginal culture. This is why I decided not to post any photos of Uluru. I have taken many, but I wish to invite all the interested parties for a private viewing, where I will explain the meaning behind each photo and the significance of Tjukurpa.

On the final day we did the Base Walk around Uluru and headed towards the airport where I got off. I way flying from Ayers Rock to Sydney, which made me all excited as I'll be able to see the Rock from the air. Of course, I was on the wrong side of the plane. FML.

Anyhow, this trip to the Red Centre was truly amazing and a definite must for any Australian experience!

Yours truly,

Ajda

The Red Centre

So I boarded the Ghan. What a nice train! I obviously bought the cheapest ticket, yet I was still treated with respect. The leg room was great, there were showers on the train (yes, my second weird shower of the trip!), we even got a complimentary towel to use. Coffee was only $3.5, which is cheaper than in many other places. Another bonus was a commentary along the way (not that the outback offers many sights, but still).

Overall, the journey was worth its price. Trains are incomparably better than buses and enjoying the landscape while sipping coffee in a cafe was also a joy. Moreover, people were chatty and I actually made some friends on the train. One of them was 80 years old and he told me a terrible story.

When the early settlers decided to colonize the outback, they first ventured to the Red Centre themselves to inspect the landscape. As they were terribly ignorant in the ways of nature, they didn't know how to get water in the arid lands of central Australia. So they caught an Aborigine and kept him locked for two days. In that time he got thirsty enough to start running towards the water source as soon as the settlers released him. All they needed to do was follow the poor man.

Australia is full of stories like that and I am beyond shocked to see how most people respond to them. They start saying how rough the early settlers had it and how brave they were. Brave? Brutally exploiting the natives is being brave?

I am getting sadder each day. I see Aborigines and all I see in their eyes is longing and despair. Maybe even confusion. I feel so guilty towards them,  a real White man syndrome. Which is ironic, because I am a Slav (not many famous colonialists among Slovenians). Still I feel I am an intruder on their land. The land they understand, appreciate and respect as no other. I silently beg forgivness from them, but I know that is not something they need or want. They want their land back and their way of life. The way that is incomprehensible to us, too natural, too far away from the material obsessions we are perpetuating.

Thus I wander the streets of Alice Springs in melancholic mood, wishing people would abandon their self - righteous ways and become infinitely more humble towards not only Aborigines, but the nature herself. But that is only a distant dream... is it not?

Yours truly,
Ajda

Adelaide and such

The reason it took me a while to write my next entry is simple. I couldn't decide what to write.  Or rather how to write it.
My head is full of thoughts and as much as I wanted to have a blog about travel tips, I urgently need to describe my view of Australia, to get it out of the system.

After a few days in Melly I took the Great Ocean Road tour. This was not entirely a bad idea as the route is really nice, but masses of tourists kind of ruined it for me. 12 Apostles are indeed a spectacular sight, but when a group of Japanese tourists is pushing you in every direction you can't help but to start hating the trip.

Later I returned to Melly where I waited for my night bus to Adelaide. I actually had no other option but to take this bus as the day route has been booked a week in advance. Gosh. Still, the night ride wasn't bad and things started improving as soon as I've arrived to Adelaide.

First of all the bus station has complimentary showers. I am not kidding.  There was a shower at the station and I HAD to try it (curiosity, not only because I was super stinky after the ride). The shower was clean, spacious and actually really nice. 10 points for Adelaide.

Then I had an early morning walk to the hostel. I love early mornings! Everything is so peaceful and serene.

At the hostel I dropped my luggage and got a free bike. Another 10 points! Thus I was breezing through the city on the bike which is absolutely the best way to get around.

Central Market? Probably +20 points. Lots of produce, also organic, lovely stalls and many interesting things to try. If only my budget was a tad bigger... I'd probably own half of the Central Market by now.

The city itself is lovely. There's a nice river flowing through, which offers many jogging, walking and cycling opportunities. The centre is small, manageable and full of interesting shops (old school candy shop anyone?).

I decided to catch the guided tour at Aboriginal art centre, only to come to the Spirit festival that celebrates Aboriginal culture. Yay! I attended painting, weaving and singing workshop, free of charge, and each one was incredible! What an amazing turn of events! (Have you noticed how many things are free of charge in Adelaide, unlike in Melbourne?)

I am still having regrets for not spending more time in this pleasant city. If I had to move to Australia, Adelaide would surely be at the top of my list of cities to live in!

Sunday morning demanded some discipline of me as I walked for 3km, with all my luggage, to the Great Southern Railway station. There I boarded the Ghan, one of the greatest train travels in the world.

To be continued....

Yours truly,
Ajda

Travel tips:
- spend less time in Melbourne and more time in Adelaide
- consider renting a car to avoid tourists (which means also travelling very early or very late in the day)
- if coming to Australia in the summer, be sure to book everything in advance
- do the Great Ocean Road in two days, don't rush

Melly

So, down to business. I finally reached the land of plenty. Plenty of poisonous animals that is. ;) Kidding, kidding, Oz is nice. My first stop is Melbourne, supposedly one of the top 5 cities to live in in the world. The big question is - is this true?
At first I hated Melbourne. Ok, hated might be a bit rough, but I disliked it for sure. Later on I realized why. It is big, enormous (for a Slovenian). It is expensive. It is crowded. I am a countryside girl, a child of wilderness (lol), thus Melly at first didn't seem like my cup of tea.
Later I chilled. Relaxed. Started breathing. And finally I realized Melly is kinda cool. The city is a lovechild of the vibrant, restless New York and a laid-back, chillaxed beach town (imaginary Aussie surf spot). It is big without being overwhelming. It is cosmopolitan without being impersonal. It is hip without being pretentious. Truly a nice place.

The whole reason my spirit was up is naturally because I was socialising with people. At first I couldn't get a couch to surf, spent a lot of money on internet, hostel, transport and alike, so no wonder I was pissed. Later situation improved dramatically. My friend Lachy agreed to meet me and we had a truly wonderful conversation over a truly wonderful Japanese dinner. The next day I also got an invitation for couchsurfing, which turned out to be a great experience. The guy that is hosting me is Egyptian, living with his equally Egyptian friend. At first you would think what have I gotten myself into, couchsurfing with Middle Eastern male strangers. I was a tad sceptical myself, I have to admit. But life full of prejudice is a life wasted, so I decided to give it a go. And how glad I am to have done so! Ahmed proved to be a super nice guy, very forward-thinking, relaxed, and generous, so my anxiety disappeared within seconds.
As I was celebrating my twenty khm birthday, the guys took me out for a Middle Eastern brunch, which included fava bean falafel, yummy bean stew, feta cheese, olives, AND, halleluyah, Turkish coffee. Last part was pure heaven, naturally. In the evening I insisted on baking a cake, since it was the day of my birth, and the guys put a candle on it and sang happy birthday. Thus even though I was miles away from my friends and family, I felt loved and respected. Yes, couchsurfing is amazing.
Today we were sightseeing a bit more and when we got hungry, Ahmed suggested a place called Lentils as anything. This is a 'pay what you feel' restaurant, where you contribute as much money as you wish after the meal. The restaurant is vegetarian, with a self-service buffet of yummy food. Today's menu: shredded salad, coconut thai curry, baked pasta, baked polenta with sour cream and cardamom cake. Yum, yum, yum! The atmosphere is fabulous, food delicious, prices.... customised. We paid the fair price of 13$ each, so no freeloading here!
Before the nightfall I managed to catch the sunset at St Kilda beach, which is the-beach-to-be in Melbourne. Locals gather there for an evening kitesurfing practice, to walk the dog, play volleyball match with friends and strangers, throw frisbee, or just catch the last rays of sunlight.
Another great day in another great city, I say.
Yet, my conclusion always comes in 50 shades of grey:
Negative
- people leisurly strolling down a busy avenue, obstructing more active folks
- internet insanely expensive, free wifi a dream
- prices (hostels cost on average 35$ a night, that is rouhly 25€)
- people's personal style. Now this could be an entry on its own. While Kiwi girls generally copy the style of Lorde, which I am not crazy about, but at least it is a style concept, here everybody wears what they want. Leggings as trousers. See-throughs and cut-outs. Leggings with patterns. Vintage pieces from 3 different periods. Crocs. Birkenstocks as businesswear. Shorts shorts with camel toes. Nothing is too much. When you are not feeling underdressed as a tourist in sweatsuit and sneakers, then you know something is wrong.
Positive
+ food culture (yummy food and fantastic markets)
+ über-friendly people
+ man buns
+ weather
Overall, thumbs up. Would come back.

Yours truly,
Ajda

The eco girl

After 8 years of independent travels I thought I had everything sorted. Until I discovered I had been doing it wrong all this time.
Wrapping things in plastic to keep them 'fresh' and protected. Buying loads of small and individually packed things for 'practical reasons'. Eating on the budget.
Wrong. Wrong. Wrong.

Now I realize travelling is a privilege and we should treat it as such. When visiting a country, we are not there only to satisfy our insatiable greed for new experiences, but also to show respect to the land, the people and the culture.
And here is how I changed my habits for the benefit of all:
- I became inseparable from my reusable shopping bag. This little friend is with me at all times and comes in handy when I am shopping for groceries or storing my jacket when it's hot. I NEVER take plastic bags at the supermarket check out. I believe just in the past 3 months I have spared the environment already over a 100 plastic bags. And this makes a HUGE DIFFERENCE with LITTLE EFFORT.
- I buy fruits and veggies at farmer's markets, organically, locally. By doing this I support local farmers and local economy. I also eat better and honor my body by offering it a healthier diet. No, it is not the cheapest way to do it. But I am talking about personal health here. Surely that is not something worth saving your money on. By supporting organic food you strengthen the industry that is sustainable and responsible towards the environment. No sprays and pesticides means healthier land for the locals, too.
- Avoid individually packed items and plastic on top of plastic. I consciously buy items packed in cardboard, paper or nothing at all. If you can't avoid plastic, then reuse it and/or recycle it.
- One of the best things I bought were silicone travel tubes and silicone food container. Travel tubes 'GoTube' come in carry-on sizes, are reusable and don't leak. Also handy when making your own toothpaste or shampoo. The food container I got from Kathmandu, it folds when not in use and also has a leak-proof lid.
- My cosmetics are bio - degradable. I use organic soap that is not only good for the environment (I don't want a polluted Samoa, do you?), but also for your skin. Same goes for the shampoo and toothpaste.
- Stop freaking buying bottled water and start drinking tap water. In most countries it is completely safe. If in risky areas, get one of those purifying straws or electric purifiers.
- Don't buy rubbish souvenirs. That plastic kitsch isn't worth it. Your friends and family are only going to look at it once and probably throw it away at the next spring clean-up. If you insist on gifts, donate to a worthy local cause in your friend's name or purchase a sustainable, local handicraft.

There are many ways to make this planet a better place to live. This is my meager contribution to our future generations.
Reuse! Recycle! Respect!

And get that ducking rubbish out of your life. You ain't worth it and neither is our planet.

Yours truly,

Eco-Ajda

Killing me softly

Today was another day of hikes. Early in the morning I witnessed a spectacular dawning at Tekapo before heading to Mt Cook National Park for some extra sore muscles. Mt Cook village is situated on a plain surrounded by mountains, not unlike Sorško polje back home, but a tad more dramatic. I went for a full monty which included a hike to both Kea point and Hooker village.
Kea point is basically a viewpoint in front of the glacier morraine, which is cool, but it was too windy to stay there for long and enjoy the view. Thus I continued my way across three swing bridges, which were a ton of fun in that deadly wind. Also I was nearly knocked over, but that's another story. My dirty mind simply couldn't stop thinking, how Hooker valley needs another name. Sure the valley is invitingly open (wink wink nudge nudge), but Fart valley might be more appropriate for it is windy as hell.
Anyhow, I was battling my way onwards, struggling with my lenses (curse you, keratoconus!) and fighting the fatigue that was coming onto me. After 5 hours I finally managed the circuit and returned to the hostel exhausted. I fell asleep in the common area and barely managed to move my ass over to the room. Now I am off to a looooog sleep. Back to Chch tomorrow and heading towards Taupo on Wednesday.
Much love,
Ajda

Tongariro crossing

Today was the day I did Tongariro crossing. 4 years ago I was at the same place at the same time, but they told me the weather would suck so 'don't go'. The weather of course didn't suck.
This time I wasn't taking no for an answer. I booked my tickets to Taupo, checked the weather forecast and what do you know, it was cloudy with fine spells today! So even though I was sleeping mostly on a night bus from Wellington and had a short 'nap' at the hostel, I was ready at 5.30 to begin the adventure! I was so excited I couldn't even sleep on the way to the starting point.
It was just beginning to dawn as we began our trek across Tongariro national park. Crowds of people were rushing to the top which definitely took away a lot of the charm. The other thing was the steep climb at the beginning of the track, namely at 7.40 in the morning. I can do it. If those obnoxious British teens can, so can I.
Luckily the crowd thinned at the bottom of Mt Doom (I can't spell the original name of this mountain, sorry guys). Later it thickened again at the very annoying part of the track where there was just gravel on a steep slope. Slippery, dusty, dangerous. But the view! Emerald lakes! Red rock! Mysterious volcanic formations! Yes!
By the way, this was my first time climbing an active volcano and it was quite exciting.
At three quarters of the way the fog began to roll over the mountain tops and it got cold. Then it got sunny again. And cold. And very hot a moment later.
The descent was half annoying, half fabulous. It was annoying, because it was so goddamn long and tiredness began to kick in. The fabulous part was the views, the geothermal steam coming out of the mountain, curvy track, heather everywhere, then lush greenery. Really nice.
However, overall, Tongariro didn't really impress me. I was expecting a lot (perhaps too much) as it is supposed to be one of New Zealand's Great walks. It is not bad, but I much preferred the unadvertised Tekapo track. And I am from Slovenia, there are hundreds of spectacular walks over there.
Anyhow, one tick off my bucket list. Wait, two. Tongariro and climbing an active volcano. I'll continue ticking off a couple more once I get to Australia.
That's it for today, kids!
Yours truly,
Ajda