I rushed down hill with Dave to catch the morning bus to Lalomanu. By chance I also got to see the daily march of Samoan police. They all have this fancy uniforms and march down the main road accompanied by police brass band.
Then I hop into the TIC only to find out there are few buses that go to Lalomanu (a village on the other side of the island) and that nobody really knows for sure the schedule.
I take my chance. I hop on one of the before-mentioned wooden creatures that rush through the incredibly colourful and beautiful villages of Samoa to the East side of the island. Every time there's a kind person on the bus that speaks English well enough to help me hop off the bus at the right spot. This time my spot is Falefa.
I initially regret hopping off the bus in this small village that boasts with a very tiny waterfall. Later I see this was a valuable experience.
A man comes down and tell me I have to pay 3 tala for the entrance to the waterfalls. All land in Samoa is private or communally owned, so getting a permission and paying a small fee is necessary. 3 tala is approx. 1€. I give 10 tala and wait for change, which ends up being 5 tala. Maths seems to be intentionally altered in this island.
I see the waterfall and stroll down the village. The day is hot and I'm soaking in sweat again. A local boy comes to me and inquires where I'm headed. I explain and, while I'm at it, ask for a coconut to drink. I get my coconut and offer 2 tala for the drink. Oh man, these coconuts are fresh and delicious! I'll reconsider the option of carrying a coconut in my bag the next time I go to work. :)
Anyhow I patiently wait for an hour and a half until the next bus arrives. I hop on and start the second part of my journey East. We ride through a mountain pass with great views, but unfortunately the bus is too quick and shaky for any good shots. In the final part of the journey a man comes onto the bus and starts talking to me. He explains he owns falas on the beach in Lalomanu and I decide to stay there for the night.
Fala is a local beach hut, which has a roof and no doors and stands on poles about 1 meter off the ground. I get a mattress and a mosquito net. And a million dollar view from my non-existent window. In the morning I wake up into the first sunrise in the world. It is pure magic.
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| Falefa |
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| coco loco |
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| my fale |
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| best bed |
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| giant papaya |
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| first sunrise in the world |
Drugi dan moje samoanske pustolovščine se zbudim v prelepo sončno jutro. Kakšno deževno obdobje? o.O
Z Daveom sva drvela po hribu v dolino, da sem lahko ujela prvi avtobus za Lalomanu. Po naključju sem uspela videti tudi dnevni pohod samoanske policije. Vsi so oblečeni v čedne uniforme (srajca in lavalava) in korakajo navzdol po glavni ulici ob spremljavi policijske godbe.
Nato skočim še v TIC, kjer mi pojasnijo, da v Lalomanu (vasico na vzhodu otoka) vozi le malo busov in da nihče ne ve zares, kakšen je njihov urnik.
Tvegam. Skočim na eno od že omenjenih lesenih kreatur, ki kmalu že drvi skozi neverjetno pisane in lepe vasice Samoe na vzhod otoka. Vedno se najde kakšna prijazna oseba na avtobusu, ki mi pomaga izstopiti na pravem mestu. Tokrat je moja postaja Falefa.
Sprva obžalujem izstop v tej mali vasici, ki se kiti z enim ubogim slapom. Kasneje spoznam, da je bila to vseeno prava odločitev.
Približa se mi moški in mi pove, da moram plačati 3 tale za ogled slapu. Vsa zemlja na Samoi je zasebna ali (večinoma) skupnostna, zato je potrebno pridobiti dovoljenje lokalcev in plačati majhno vstopnino. 3 tale so približno 1€. Jaz imam samo 10 tal in čakam na drobiž, ki na koncu znaša 5 tal. Matematika se očitno na otoku namenoma prilagaja potrebam.
Vidim slap in se sprehodim po vasici. Dan je vroč in kopam se v potu. Lokalni fant se mi približa in me vpraša, kam sem namenjena. Razložim mu in ga pri tem prosim za kokos. Dobim svojo pijačo-kokos in dam v zameno 2 tali. Pišuka, teli kokosi so zares sveži in slastni! Resnično bom premisila o možnosti pitja kokosa v službi namesto vode. :)
Kakorkoli, potrpežljivo čakam uro in pol, da pride naslednji bus. Skočim gor in začne se drugi del moje poti na vzhod. Vozimo se skozi gorski prelaz z bajnimi razgledi, ampak je na žalost bus prehiter in preveč majav, da bi lahko posnela dobre fotografije. Na koncu poti pride na avtobus moški in se prične pogovarjati z mano. Razloži mi, da je lastnik fal na obali Lalomanuja in odločim se, da bom kar tam prebila noč.
Fala je lokalna hišica na plaži, ki ima streho in prav nobenih sten. Stoji na drogovih približno 1 meter od tal, streho pa prav tako podpirajo stebri. Dobim še vzmetnico in mrežo proti komarjem. In seveda še razgled za bogove z mojega neobstoječega okna. Zjutraj se zbudim s pogledom na prvi sončni vzhod na svetu. Čista magija.
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